Le Monde, Broadway just north of 113th

We needed comfort. David had just returned from a week of sitting shiva in Pittsburgh. It was our first meal together back in New York. We wanted something other than the chicken or pizza or pasta people brought over for us. We wanted a good glass of red wine. We wanted to sit and be served by a solicitous waiter.

At medium, the Le Monde's burger was perfectly cooked -- pink in the center, moist, grilled brown on the outside and served on a sesame egg bun. I didn't touch the tomatoes which looked smushed. The fries were heavenly -- buttery crisp on the outside. And yes, dipped in ketchup, sublime.

David ordered the duck confit -- and as often happens, I regretted not ordering what he ordered. His duck was cooked in aromatic spices -- tender and juicy, and served crispy, garlicky and parsleyed cottage fries that were incredibly delicious.

For dessert we ordered the tarte tartin. Freshly sliced apples in a bed of phyllo, topped with vanilla ice cream. We were indeed soothed.

The bill came to $72 for dinner, dessert and two glasses of red wine.